108 – Spit! April 12, 2018

In today’s episode Scott and David redefine the English language, discuss how individual surf towns spawn and segregate unique board design, they discuss the shortcomings of the keel fin, how to decapitate someone with a boomerang, and the worst Instagram account ever operated. Plus, Dukes, Kooks, and so much more enjoy!

Today’s show is sponsored by Need Essentials, Spy Optic (use promo code “podcast” for a free Surfrider Foundation one year membership), and World Wave Expeditions.

THE BOARDROOM SHOW

Come hang with us and meet some of the worlds best shapers all in one room. Get tickets at the door or at BoardroomShow.com 

Longtime Santa Barbara and north coast shaper Marc Andreini will be honored during the Icons of Foam Tribute to the Masters Shape-off presented by US Blanks at the 2018 Boardroom International Surfboard Show in Del Mar. Marc Andreini has been designing, shaping and building custom surfboards for over 50 years. Andreini continues to be an active and prolific shaper, evolving and experimenting with different board types; recently leading the charge with the Greenough inspired Edge design concept. “It is an honor for me to be considered among the likes of Diff, Yater, Bradbury, Merrick, all of the Icons.” said Andreini. “Thanks to all of them and the other craftsmen in our industry. See you all in May at The Boardroom.” This Tournament of Champions event includes eight incredible craftsmen, all winners in their own right. The number one seed, Ricky Carroll from Florida, has won this event three times. Seeds two through four, Roger Hinds, Wayne Rich and Stu Kenson respectively, have each won this event twice. The number five and six seeds, Rex Marechal and Matt Calvani have won the shape-off once. The #7 seed, Bill Barnfield from Oahu, an Andreini wildcard, is one of the most respected board builders in the world with decades of craftsmanship under his belt. Seed #8, Travis Reynolds from Santa Cruz, also an Andreini wildcard, is a highly respected board builder from Santa Cruz. Gentleman, start your planers! May 5 & 6 Del Mar – Join us! @marcandreini @waynerichsurfboards @rickycarrollsurfboards @mattcalvani @sk_shape @rogerhindssurfboards @billbarnfield @rmshapes @surfboardsbytravisreynolds #boardroomshow @boardporn #may5n6 #delmar

A post shared by The Boardroom (@boardroomshow) on Apr 5, 2018 at 6:45am PDT

BELLS RECAP

Pat Gudauskas’s New Found Form

Zeke (literally) paddles circles around John John, nullifying his talent and winning the heat.

How has Italo garnered the entire surf world’s support?

MUST-SEE MOMENT

KOOK

And that’s why we can’t have long hair. @ocinstanews

A post shared by Chas Smith (@reportsfromhell) on Apr 10, 2018 at 6:36pm PDT

Listener email . . .

“Hey David,

I am a clinical psychologist and a long time listener.

Tonight, I watched (the aforementioned video) of the guy surfing a 1ft wave at 54th St, Newport Beach. In the video the surfer is dropped in on by another surfer with long hair. The first guy then proceeds to pull the hair of the offender and yanks him off his board. The first surfer continues on for a few feet pumping his board ferociously. Then he walks back towards the long haired guy and continues to yell and berate him as the long haired guy is obviously apologizing. Indeed, it seems the guy who dropped in was about to pull out of the wave before he was grabbed. It is an ugly site, yet something we are somewhat used to in California.

I have a few issues with this video. The guy doing the hair pulling is a middle aged man who runs and account followed by 20,000 or so 15 year old kids who hold him in high regard.

I followed his IG for sometime, even though my wife swore he was a kook, I defended him and would state that his account was about fun and being positive. I was wrong. He would make fun of people a lot and couldn’t seem to avoid high school drama. I could clearly see this was a man looking for acceptance of any kind. I continued to follow for a while, mainly to study the psychological effects of social media on people, I found his an interesting case, due to his age.

My cursory observation is that more and more people are finding their identity on social media. This is called pseudo esteem or pseudo confidence. When someone derives their self esteem and identity from social media likes and clicks. The need for virtual validation begins to dictate their real life behavior.

I have seen this character get into all sorts of drama and verbal altercations on his feed and live videos. In these altercations he has stated to his opponents things like ‘you don’t know who I am’ and ‘I’m going to blast you all over my page to my followers’.

Thankfully, most of the comments on the video are negative towards his actions but that doesn’t matter. He will gain followers and continue on his hollow journey. This is the new norm and it is extremely worrying.

Most people in these cases are actually a lot younger, but it always ends with a depression of some kind. You can’t live a fake existence for long.

The actions in the 1ft surf by this person were disgusting and everything I hate about surfing. How many times have you been dropped in on or dropped in on someone? It happens and this reaction is not warranted. Maybe, if it was in waves of consequence. I worry for the future, when an angry, middle aged, middle class man who seeks the validation of teenagers can wield so much influence over our youth.”

Another listener email:

“As a fairly new surfer I am fully addicted and I’m disgusted by this video. Surfing is my new passion and I love almost everything about it. I follow all the shapers and surfers on the gram and spend much of my day deep in surf thought. Isn’t surfing supposed to be relaxing and meditative. Where’s the aloha? I’ve heard all the stories about localism and thugs protecting their break and it makes sense in some cases ie Pipeline where it’s just as much about protecting people in the water as it is respect. But that’s not what this was. This was a child throwing a pissing party. Seemed like a real kook if you ask me.”

DUKE

Rose Marcario for elevating social responsibility while simultaneously quadrupling Patagonia’s profits, thereby influencing all businesses to do the same.

LINK TO ARTICLE