131 - Spit! April 16, 2019

In today’s episode Scott reflects on a life changing encounter he had in the water in Northern Baja, David reviews his channel bottom twin midlength, they both speculate on corporate corruption in surf awards, judge the judges performance at DBah, and explain how Kelly’s retirement was all signaled by one single turn. Plus Dukes, Kooks, and more!

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This episode is sponsored by NeedEssentials.com and SpyOptic.com (use promo code “podcast”).

Enjoy Nordurland presented by NeedEssentials

NORDURLAND – An arctic surfing adventure from needessentials1@gmail.com on Vimeo.

This is David’s exact board, reviewed in today’s show . . .

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Panel Vee Fiji 6’10” @onboardstorebyronbay @onboard_store @onboardstorebali
A post shared by Morning Of The Earth Surfboard (@morningoftheearthsurfboards) on Mar 12, 2019 at 5:45pm PDT

LAURIE TOWNER’S AWARDS GRIPE

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I feel for the surfers who have to keep the corporate wankers happy. I’m a bit bummed but in some way happy this wave didn’t make the top 5 nominees for @wsl @wslbigwave awards. After surfer mag didn’t put this wave in their top 5 for barrels of the year beaten by 3 foot skeleton bay waves and a few others (if had the chance I wouldn’t swap all 5 waves chosen in surfer awards for this one haha) I knew there was no way this wave would make the top 5 big wave award nominations because of corporate bull shit! Whats the surf industry going to get out of Laurie Towner. The reason I’m some what happy is because all my life I though it would be amazing to have a ride of the year next to my name. I now know it’s a meaningless award chosen by kooks with no idea who play the cards of surfers careers. Winning awards would be in some big wave surfers contracts, it use to be in mine and it truely sucks for the surfers trying to make a career out of riding big waves, lucky for me it means nothing now. Although the money would of been nice if I made the top 5 it reassures me I want nothing to do with winning awards, I will never enter a wave again if I’m to ride another bomb, which I will. This wave is MY ride of the year, maybe my ride of my life and no one can take that from me. Maybe I’m being biased you tell me? I wouldn’t change this wave for anyone else’s wave this year if had the chance even if you were to give me 50g on top, there is no better feeling than to successfully paddle a big scary draining wave safely to the channel. To all the up and coming big wave surfers Fuck the big wave awards, do it for yourself no one else! Sorry If I’m being negative Im not the only one who feels a little hard done by in this years nomination there is a hand full of terrible decisions. I just want what’s best for the future of young big wave surfers and this needs to be fixed! honestly @wsl get tow waves out of ride of the year! You shouldnt be helped by a jet ski it’s also hard to think an unmade wave can be ride of the year. Well @granttwigbaker wave might be an exception haha Also sorry for the novel ?
A post shared by Laurie Towner (@laurietowner) on Apr 15, 2019 at 3:02am PDT

See all other Ride of the Year entries HERE