On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we explore surfing in the time of the Hawaiian Renaissance of the late 60’s and 70s. Lopez, BK, Bertleman, Buttons, Reno, Sunn, are just a few names that represented a new paradigm in surfing. The Hawaiians were no longer taking a backseat to their mainland brethren. They were leading the charge of performance surfing while Hawaiians of all walks of life were experiencing a rediscovery of their culture after decades of suppression from colonialists. These two things didn’t just randomly coincide. The movement had a lasting impact and surfing would forever be changed.
Plus, listen one Breuer Bro receives a historical pounding with another round of Stump my bro! All on this episode of Hardcore Surf History.
Music:
Artist: Israel Kamakawiwo’ole
Song: Hawai’i ’78
Album: Facing Future
Book Recommendations:
– Voices of Wisdom: Hawaiian Elders Speak by MJ Harden
-Waves of Resistance: Surfing and History in the Twentieth Century Hawai’i by Prof. Isaiah Helekunihi Walker
-Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman
– Hawaii by James A. Michener
Of Course the EOS is one of our main research hubs. Go to www.EOS.surf to subscribe and indulge.
Show Notes:
00:00 The Birthplace of Surfing: Hawaii’s Sacred Waves
00:10 Surfing’s Near Extinction and Revival
00:39 The Spread of Surfing Beyond Hawaii
01:22 California’s Surfing Dominance
01:40 The Hawaiian Renaissance of the 1970s
02:21 Introduction to Hardcore Surf History
02:50 Rediscovery of Hawaiian Surfing Culture
03:44 The Impact of the 1970s on Surfing
06:10 The Cultural Significance of the 1970s
08:34 The Re-Centering of Surfing to Hawaii
09:47 The Purification of Surfing in the 1970s
11:41 The Biblical Period of 70s Surfing
12:42 The Influence of Hawaiian Surfers
14:04 The Context of the Hawaiian Renaissance
14:58 The Impact of U.S. Annexation and Civil Rights Movement
17:03 The Psychological Wounds of Colonialism
28:53 The Rise of Hawaiian Surfing Pride
33:33 The Shortboard Revolution and Hawaiian Advantage
39:22 The Influence of Larry Bertelman and Buttons
42:02 The Legacy of 70s Hawaiian Surfing
49:54 The Role of Women in Hawaiian Surfing
50:33 Hawaiian Culture and Gender Equality
55:43 Eddie Aikau and Lifeguard Legacy
57:15 The Impact of the Hawaiian Renaissance
59:31 Significant Surfing Events of the 70s
01:00:54 Influential Surf Figures and Stories
01:11:30 Hawaiian Music and Cultural Influence
01:14:08 Final Thoughts and Recommendations
01:19:12 Stump My Bro: Surf Trivia
CREDITS
Host: Tyler Breuer @SwellSeasonSurf
Host: Jamie Breuer
Producers: The Breuer Bros
Network and Distribution: Surf Splendor @SurfSplendor
