406 - Spit! May 1, 2025 - Surf Splendor

In today’s show Scott and David correct the official record and identify an important surfing world first, we learn why PT loves pink, find out how Bells became a hi-pro wave, and celebrate one of Pipeline’s most committed chargers. Enjoy!

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THE FIRST MAN ON MAN COMP

Hi David and Scott,
I am midway through your April 10, 2025 Spit! podcast where you discuss when and where was the first man-on-man professional surf contest. While the true answer may be in dispute, we can certainly rule out the 1977 Stubbies Pro at Burleigh Heads as it was preceded by the first US mainland professional surf contest held in 1972 in Atlantic Beach, North Carolina.
David, you were given this answer by the one and only Hank Warner a year or so ago when you did a Surf Splendor podcast with Hanky.
I have known this answer my entire life because my father, Gary Revel, was a participant in that very contest and it was won by his friend Yancy Spencer. In fact, my old man told me the story of that contest and the week leading up to it many times as we drove from my hometown in coastal Delaware to the Outer Banks, which we did several times a year my entire childhood. Just to be sure, I paused the podcast and called the old guy up to hear his version of the story one more time so that I could accurately relay it to you.
In 1972 the first professional surf contest on the east coast was to be held at Jeannette’s pier in Nags Head, NC. Nags Head is in the northern outer banks and while not as revered as the heavy sand bars on Hatteras Island, is better than most places on the east coast . Nags Head at the time was scarcely populated even in the summer months, but especially in the springtime, which is when I believe this contest was scheduled. Gary and friends from the mid-atlantic region had posted up in Nags Head in the days leading up to the contest, accompanied by Yancy from Pensacola. Gary and Yancy had met when Gary’s mom, my grandmother, had moved to Pensacola following the early death of my grandfather and Gary and friends traveled south in the winter eager to escape the Delaware winters.
Additionally, Gary and Yancy were both members of Hank Warner’s AGP (Atlantic (Gary), Gulf (Yancey), Pacific (Hank) surf team. Prior to this professional contest, Hank had shaped a 6’5″ “poached egg” single fin for Yancey and that was the board Yancey eventually used to win the first contest. The reference to “poached egg” is a result of Hank copying one of Skip Frye’s eggs, hence “poached”.
As the boys were posted up in Nags Head, enjoying head high lefts off the piers groomed sand bars, Bette Marsh, who owned a surf shop in Atlantic Beach, NC (a couple hours south with far inferior waves), was lobbying to have the contest moved to her town. In her defense, there was far more commercial activity in Atlantic Beach, and in true surf industry form the contest was moved from the prime sand bars of nags head to the dribbly mush of Atlantic Beach.
While the move from Nags Head to Atlantic Beach may not be entirely important to the point of this story, it was alway an important part of my dad’s story. Not to take anything from Yancey, who my dad has always spoken highly of and was deeply saddened when informed of his passing 14 years ago, but as the story goes, the contest favorites in 4-6 foot Outer Banks were far different from the favorites in 2-3 foot Atlantic Beach. Plenty of people would have put money on young GR in those conditions, which though he never said outright is I believe the reason this piece of the story was always included. It is also a classic money decision which has always been a thorn in the side of professional surfing. The waves would have been the stars in Nags Head, but that was not the case in Atlantic Beach.
Now, remember, Yancy grew up on the Gulf Coast, which while it does get hollow and good ,is far more frequently waist high and mushy. Yancy was a wizard in that type of surf. When the boys heard the contest was being relegated to Atlantic Beach, they were all dismayed, Yancy included. While Yancy intended to go home, the Delaware boys forced him into the car and dragged him to Atlantic Beach.
Upon arriving at Atlantic Beach, it was apparent to everyone Yancy would be a contest favorite, as the Atlantic Beach pier bore a striking resemblance to Yancy’s home break in Pensacola. The entire contest was held in man-on-man format, and woman-on-woman as well.
Yancy’s first heat was against David Nuuiwa, and his last against Dale Dobson. Yancey took first, Dale Dobson second. Gary, 7th. A gulf coast legend was born.
Work.
Quin Revel