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William Finnegan has been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Author of the Pulitzer winning “Barbarian Days”, he and David discuss his journey and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life. (This episode was original published on December 20, 2015).

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Click here to purchase Barbarian Days

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A Young Finnegan

MARK RENNEKER

Link to Playing Doc’s Games: Part One

Link to Playing Doc’s Games: Part Two

Mark "Doc" Renneker drinks a cup of coffee as he walks to Ocean Beach in San Francisco, CA, on May 25, 2006. Renneker, a renowned big wave surfer, was one of the first to ride at the famous break known as Mavericks.

Renneker at Ocean Beach
Renneker at Ocean Beach

WAVES DISCUSSES IN BARBARIAN DAYS

Restaurants, Tavarua
Restaurants, Tavarua

Jardim do Mar, Madeira
Jardim do Mar, Madeira

Ocean Beach, San Francisco, California
Ocean Beach, San Francisco, California

Finnegan at G-Land
Finnegan at G-Land

LEWIS SAMUELS’ ARTICLE WITH FINNEGAN ON SURFLINE

Click here or on the image below

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CONTACT

Find Finnegan’s details here:
at The New Yorker
at Penguin Press


CREDITS

Host, Producer: David Scales @David_Lee_Scales

Intro Music: Elton John, My Father’s Gun

Outro Music: Daniel Pemberton, The Skylab Plan

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