In today’s episode Derek Hynd recounts his professional history and offers lessons for how surfing can learn past mistakes. He tells the vivid details of losing his eye (and permanent eyesight) while surfing heat. He spills the sordid details of his little black book (all 4 of them). He explains how he invented “The Search” and describes why he’s evolved beyond fins and into friction free surfing. Enjoy the show.
Follow @FarFieldFrictionFree and @SurfSplendor
The man & the sea from Andrew Kaineder on Vimeo.
Intro Music: Bob Dylan, All The Tired Horses
Segue Music: Portishead, The Rip
Outro Music: Radiohead, Airbag
Host, Writer, Producer: David Scales @David_Lee_Scales