Today’s episode was recorded in the home of Jamie Brisick, which has since been vanquished by the Malibu fires. We’re replaying this episode in homage to Jamie’s home and anyone who lost their home in the California fires. Consider supporting the rebuilding efforts by donating to the Wildfire Relief Fund. Thank you and enjoy today’s show.

Jamie Brisick is a former pro surfer turned writer.  He was awarded the Fulbright Scholarship in 2008.  His stories have appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian, The Surfer’s Journal.  He’s written 3 books, his most recent “Becoming Westerly” tells the true story of Australian surfing champion Peter Drouyn transitioning to Westerly Windina. Jamie is also making a documentary about that story entitled “Westerly” which is due for release shortly.  In this conversation Jamie explains why adults are so disappointing, why writing an Instagram caption is akin to riding a step-up, and how his writing has benefited from some of his life’s greatest tragedies. Enjoy the show!

JamieBrisick.com and follow @JamieBrisick

Wildfire Relief Fund


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Today’s studio

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These Corners That We Write Ourselves Into #479: 6760 Dume Dr. (aka Home), November 14,2018

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And Takuji Masuda as well.

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Excerpts from “The Dazzling Blackness” by Jamie Brisick were read in today’s episode. Read the piece in it’s entirety HERE.

Click to purchase “Becoming Westerly”

Jamie in Fernando de Noronha
Brisick with Stephanie Gilmore in 2015

Music credits from this episode

Bob Dylan, Main Title Theme (Billy)

Sigur Ros, Agaetis Byrjun

Bob Dylan, Abandoned Love


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