Jamie Brisick is a former pro surfer turned writer. He was awarded the Fulbright Scholarship in 2008. His stories have appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian, The Surfer’s Journal. He’s written 3 books, his most recent “Becoming Westerly” tells the true story of Australian surfing champion Peter Drouyn transitioning to Westerly Windina. Jamie is also making a documentary about that story entitled “Westerly” which is due for release shortly. In this conversation Jamie explains why adults are so disappointing, why writing an Instagram caption is akin to riding a step-up, and how his writing has benefited from some of his life’s greatest tragedies. Enjoy the show!
Excerpts from “The Dazzling Blackness” by Jamie Brisick were read in today’s episode. Read the piece in it’s entirety HERE.
Music credits from this episode
Bob Dylan, Main Title Theme (Billy)
Sigur Ros, Agaetis Byrjun
Bob Dylan, Abandoned Love