170 - Spit! June 21, 2017

In today’s episode of Spit!, David and Scott survey Occy’s forthcoming wave pool “Surf Lakes”, analyze the OK Fiji Pro, Dane Reynold’s return to competition, and in the tradition that Scott set forth, David establishes his “Core Surf Values”. They also offer Must-See Moments, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy!

RECORD SETTING PADDLE-OUT

OCCY’S SURF LAKES

Occy is the Surf Industry Advisor for “Surf Lakes”.

From the prospectus, “Surf Lakes works by generating concentric waves from a central wave generator that radiate outwards. Each wave breaks on a variety of submerged reefs and shorelines. Each reef captures the energy of the swell at different points and shapes the resulting wave, thus a creating a variety of sizes and shapes of waves. The number of surf breaks generated by each single wave is only limited by the size of the pool and number of surf breaks. In the model below, each wave generates 8 surfing waves and 4 learner style waves. This allows up to 12 surfers to surf on each wave that is produced.“

“The wave generator is oscillated to create a ‘set’ of waves much like the ocean, with the breaking waves resembling a “peak” wave seen at quality beach breaks like Duranbah Beach in Queensland, or quality reef breaks like Pipeline in Hawaii. The waves break both left and right, from a central peak or ‘a-frame’.”

“Each set produces 5 to 7 waves and is repeated every few minutes. Therefore, capable of producing up to 2,400 rideable waves each hour. This does not include the ‘learner’ style waves that are produced at each corner of the lake. These waves would be utilised by surf schools, which further add to the revenue generating potential of the Surf Lake.”

FIJI PRO

Congrats to Matt Wilkinson for defeating Conner O’Leary in the final.

KEPA ACERO’S NEAR FATAL WIPEOUT

“The only thing that separates us from death is time.” Kepa Acero

OLATU FACTORY FIRE

Link to full article on Surfline.com

Just when I thought I’ve seen and experienced it all, and only two years after I lost my house to a fire, life sent another set wave at 30 others and I and it was no rehearsal. I had just laid the last shape of my day down upstairs at the @pukassurf factory in Spain and heard fire alarms thru the loud noises of operating shaping machines, various stereos, and noticed nobody was around. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the girls from the office start screaming at me in Spanish from a distance and I just took that as run as I only had seconds to navigate out of the largest surfboard factory in Europe. Flames were running along the walls and floors rapidly igniting everything in their path as I was one of the last to get out. It was a miracle that all 30+ of us made it out of the factory just before 100% of the building was engulfed in flames. It took 25 minutes before the first fire crew arrived. All we could do is watch this fire from a distance take the whole factory down along with surrounding buildings. It was so sad to see the tears of the owners and staff who have put 40+ years of their heart and souls into this business, and to know the tough paddling they’ll have to do to make it back in the channel. Fire is no joke, and I encourage everyone to take all fire preventions and drills seriously at your home, work place, and places of leisure. This was just my 3rd trip to work here and I already considered @pukassurf family and amongst the nicest people I’ve ever worked with. The @pukassurf crew is tough as nails and they’ll be back in the lineup soon, stronger than ever…… Life is precious, and business is just only business.
A post shared by Chris Christenson (@chris_christenson73) on Jun 19, 2017 at 10:05pm PDT