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Finnegan’s been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Professionally, he’s a staff writer at The New Yorker, since 1987, and author of 5 books including his most recent, Barbarian Days, which is the main subject of our conversation here today. As a journalist his mainly written about apartheid, drug wars, and border conflicts, but Barbarian Days is a memoir, a far departure from journalistic reporting. Finnegan is a lifelong surfer and the book details his journey from adolescence through adulthood as a surfer, exploring the world, and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life.  We recorded this conversation in LA at the kitchen table of an AirBnB he had rented while he was here visiting family. Enjoy!

Click here to purchase Barbarian Days

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A Young Finnegan

MARK RENNEKER

Link to Playing Doc’s Games: Part One

Link to Playing Doc’s Games: Part Two

Mark "Doc" Renneker drinks a cup of coffee as he walks to Ocean Beach in San Francisco, CA, on May 25, 2006. Renneker, a renowned big wave surfer, was one of the first to ride at the famous break known as Mavericks.

Renneker at Ocean Beach
Renneker at Ocean Beach

WAVES DISCUSSES IN BARBARIAN DAYS

Restaurants, Tavarua
Restaurants, Tavarua
Jardim do Mar, Madeira
Jardim do Mar, Madeira
Ocean Beach, San Francisco, California
Ocean Beach, San Francisco, California
Finnegan at G-Land
Finnegan at G-Land

LEWIS SAMUELS’ ARTICLE WITH FINNEGAN ON SURFLINE

Click here or on the image below

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CONTACT

Find Finnegan’s details here:
at The New Yorker
at Penguin Press

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