Things are designed to work better and promote ease. Experimenting with honest assessments on vintage concepts. Sometimes difficult things show simpler truths.
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Truly honored to have @surfersjournal include me in their recent issue. The fascinations that capture one early on in life are assumed to be common to all. When you find out these things are unique to you, and the overlap with others that is sometimes shared, is never truly just the way you dream. That’s where these dreams go and have you wake up way too far down life‘s path. With a knowing that this inherent bent is the comfortable lane for you to be the best you. It’s not comfortable because it’s easy. But, it’s conveniently interesting enough to have you besotted with its complexity and fancy with its danger and difficulty. Many have helped along the way and the joy sharing things is always worth it all. Thanks to Dodge Weirath who penned the article with such determined care; fitting the hours of questions into the spaces beside the pretty pictures from the many talented lens men. And let us not forget the world class riders from around the globe on the boards too. I take the whole thing quite seriously, maybe too seriously. The work that it is. With hopes that this contributes to inspire others to do what they do and run those paths down dream’s lane. After all, this entire magazine and the volumous archive is story telling that gives perspective, hope and insight to the way we surfers like to dream, plan and do. @visslasurf
White Caps Of The Mind from The Surfer’s Journal on Vimeo.