025 – Dougal Paterson

African ,wild, crazy, honest and true. Big wave friend and community pillar. Dougal explains how he has come to find the thin spaces in his life. Surfing, photography and intentions. He pursues the highest echelons of them all.

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Not surfing has been very difficult. It’s been a deeply introspective journey thus far. Big waves are a place of courage and reverence for me. A place where the envelope between this world and the next, thins. I know with utter certainty that if I surfed now, I would experience none of those things. And so, I must wait.. @finisterreuk @ben_player @jackjohns

A post shared by Dougal Paterson (@dougalpaterson) on May 6, 2020 at 6:42am PDT

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Dear President Cyril Ramaphosa. The last two decades have been hard for our country. Your predecessors were fallen men who did our great nation immense harm, but your words during the crisis have given us reason to hope again. I believe that you are capable of leading us with tremendous courage and fortitude. We pledge to care for the vulnerable in whatever capacities we are presently capable of. We are with you ! There is so much ahead for us to hopeful about ! Mr President, many from my tribe use wave riding to metabolize personal loss (I am one of them.) Uncle Cyril could you please let your people go surfing? It would help us to be braver as we journey down the unfamiliar paths that lie ahead. With love & deep respect. Dougal Paterson @kim_bouchier

A post shared by Dougal Paterson (@dougalpaterson) on Apr 27, 2020 at 6:52am PDT

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I paddled into two of my biggest waves on this 11ft 2inch twin fin. After surviving several seasons , it was finally ripped in half. I thought I’d leave it broken as a memento of sorts, but I recently changed my mind. I had it put back together. It’s become a small, yet significant reminder that broken things can be fixed. The act of surfing is an honorable pursuit & the sensation of guiding a surfboard down a wall of water, is worth looking forward to. To that end, I’ve written a short story for @finisterreuk that will run on their site this weekend. I’ll post the link when it’s up. {both photo’s shot by @grant.scholtz}

A post shared by Dougal Paterson (@dougalpaterson) on Apr 8, 2020 at 10:46pm PDT

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A particularly brutal day from last year. Paris has fallen (thankfully because he was just about to run me over) with Ant shooting from the ski with another watching dude who’s just glad he isn’t either of us… Sheez. I can’t wait for it to happen all over again. @sean_a_thompson . @finisterreuk . @rydlandsea .

A post shared by Dougal Paterson (@dougalpaterson) on Feb 3, 2020 at 5:27am PST

CREDITS

Host, Producer: Donald Brink @DonaldBrink