In today’s episode of Spit! Scott and David recap the greatest surf event in recent history, The 2017 Corona Open J-Bay. Discussions include Filipe’s paradigm shifting performance, the rainstorm of 10’s, the shark frenzy, mid-wave claims to no-fame, and what new CEO Sophie Goldschmidt will bring to the WSL. We hope that you enjoy the show!
We are thrilled to welcome back former guest Dave Parmenter. He first appeared in episode 101 of Surf Splendor where we outlined his biography. A former pro surfer, a surf writer, historian, and boardbuilder, Surfing Magazine once described Parmenter as “the most interesting surfing in the world.” In today’s show Dave explains how “old” surfboard designs are more advanced than many modern designs, why he doesn’t read surf mags nor watch surf films, and why he’s spending most of his watertime miles off the coast. Enjoy the show!
Today’s episode of Spit! ranges from utterly superficial to falsely existential! Strap in. David and Scott discuss Koa Rothman’s tooth-shattering (and swallowing) wipeout, female surfers popularity eclipsing males, the Freestone/Blanchard baby to be, who will win J-Bay, will our children be riding finless surfboards, and the day Jay Davies gorilla-stomped the Internet. Enjoy the show!
SHAUN TOMSON’S “THE CODE”
Shaun Tomson’s 12 principles.
I will never turn my back on the ocean: Passion
I will paddle around the impact zone: No short cuts
I will take the drop with commitment: Courage, focus and determination
I will never fight a rip tide: The danger of pride and egotism
I will always paddle back out: Perseverance in the face of challenges
I will watch out for other surfers after a big set: Responsibility
I will know that there will always be another wave: Optimism
I will ride and not paddle into shore: Self-esteem
I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer: Sharing knowledge and giving back
I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind: Imagination
I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean: Empathy
I will honor the sport of kings: Honor and integrity
JACK FREESTONE AND ALANA BLANCHARD ARE GOING TO GIFT THE WORLD THEIR OFFSPRING
Will the joy of a child help or hinder their respective careers?
Come play! Go to the Clubs section and search for “Spit!”. Free to join. If you want to wager, click over HERE
THE ESPY AWARDS
Is female surfing more appealing than male surfing?
John John Florence and Tyler Wright are both nominated as the “Best Action Sports Athlete”. A male surfer has never won this award before. 3 female surfers have, Steph Gilmore twice (2013, 2011), Maya Gabeira in 2009, Sofia Mulanovich in 2005.
Rothman said, “That was probably the most barreled I’ve ever been on my 9’0” — it was like an eight- to ten-foot wave. And I’m in the barrel, and all of a sudden I saw this like flash of red — it was this guy’s board. I put my head down a little bit, ‘cause it was coming straight to my face and it just cleaned me out on the side of my head. And as soon as that happened, my teeth like shattered together on top of each other. Broken in half. And as soon as that happened, I hit the water and swallowed my teeth. I was like, ‘oh fuck. I thought I crushed my eye socket. It hit me so hard . . . .It was like a car accident.”
David and Chas answer listener inquiries, review the worst boardshorts on the market, critique Albee Layer’s musical tastes and intellect, analyze hipsters’ contributions to surfing, and then the boys seek barrel. Enjoy!
Special thanks to Surfrider.org for allowing us studio space. Please consider becoming a member and helping to improve our Earth health. Click here!
Albee is, undeniably, contributing more groundbreaking surfing to the world than nearly any other surfer . . . . buuuuuuuuuuuttttttttt . . . why oh why would he use this song? Leave your comments below.
IS TYLER ALLEN THE BEST THING IN SURFING RIGHT NOW?
Today’s episode of ‘Shaping Surfing’ features surfboard shaper Jeff McCallum. Jeff McCallum builds surfboards in San Diego California with an unwavering focus on quality. Quality is a word that gets thrown around pretty frivolously in surfboard building, so Jeff explains what exactly constitutes quality, it’s cost, and how to scale it with the growth of the business. Jeff is somewhat reclusive so it’s a real treat to have spent an hour with him and be able to bring that hour to you. His engagement with the media, or lack thereof, is just reflective of his personality and the fact that the dude is busy making surfboards by hand. And that’s where I found him, in his factory on a Tuesday morning at 9am, just a mere 12 miles north of the Mexican border. I hope that you enjoy today’s show.
In today’s episode of Spit!, David and Scott survey Occy’s forthcoming wave pool “Surf Lakes”, analyze the OK Fiji Pro, Dane Reynold’s return to competition, and in the tradition that Scott set forth, David establishes his “Core Surf Values”. They also offer Must-See Moments, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy!
RECORD SETTING PADDLE-OUT
OCCY’S SURF LAKES
Occy is the Surf Industry Advisor for “Surf Lakes”.
From the prospectus, “Surf Lakes works by generating concentric waves from a central wave generator that radiate outwards. Each wave breaks on a variety of submerged reefs and shorelines. Each reef captures the energy of the swell at different points and shapes the resulting wave, thus a creating a variety of sizes and shapes of waves. The number of surf breaks generated by each single wave is only limited by the size of the pool and number of surf breaks. In the model below, each wave generates 8 surfing waves and 4 learner style waves. This allows up to 12 surfers to surf on each wave that is produced.“
“The wave generator is oscillated to create a ‘set’ of waves much like the ocean, with the breaking waves resembling a “peak” wave seen at quality beach breaks like Duranbah Beach in Queensland, or quality reef breaks like Pipeline in Hawaii. The waves break both left and right, from a central peak or ‘a-frame’.”
“Each set produces 5 to 7 waves and is repeated every few minutes. Therefore, capable of producing up to 2,400 rideable waves each hour. This does not include the ‘learner’ style waves that are produced at each corner of the lake. These waves would be utilised by surf schools, which further add to the revenue generating potential of the Surf Lake.”
Congrats to Matt Wilkinson for defeating Conner O’Leary in the final.
KEPA ACERO’S NEAR FATAL WIPEOUT
“The only thing that separates us from death is time.” Kepa Acero
Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take the candy! Enjoy the show!
Can we begin an honest and critical dialogue about the shortcoming of women’s surfing?
Courtney won the Fiji Pro this year with a 8.74 heat total, and without getting barreled.
Rochelle Ballard’s surfing a decade ago would be winning heats today, especially during the big, unruly days. Here’s Rochelle surfing the Roxy Fiji Pro in 2006 (Not an apples to apples comparison. Rochelle is surfing a perfect day, but still worth noting).
In today’s episode of Spit!, Scott recaps his recent surf trip to Mexico where he found enlightenment and his “Core Surfing Beliefs”. The boys then analyze the tenuous link between menstruation and shark attacks, pay homage to the leaders who left us on Friday June 2nd (R.I.P. Severson and O’Neill), and then finish with Must-See Moments, Kooks, and Dukes. Enjoy!
Today we Wax On with Keith Malloy. Keith talks about his idealogical transition as a surfer, from riding high-performance thrusters to a “ride anything” mentality and how he’s documented that evolution through film, first with “Come Hell or High Water” and now with his latest documentary release “Fishpeople”. “Fishpeople” explores the lives of 6 sea-goers; a diver, a swimmer, a life coach, a photographer, and two professional surfers, as they examine how the sea has transformed their lives. We hope you enjoy this conversation with Keith Malloy.
Keith Malloy’s “Fishpeople”
Keith Malloy in California by Tim Davis
Keith Malloy in Indonesia, 2009 by Tim Davis
Keith Malloy on the Kamchatka peninsula, 2012.
Keith Malloy’s short film for Farm League, “Surfers Healing”
Welcome to Spit! with Scott Bass and David Lee Scales. It’s the exact same podcast you know and love (call it Down The Line, call it Surf News) where Bass and Scales spitball big ideas, spit vitriol, and discuss dudes getting spit out of waves. Spit! In today’s episode David sings the praises of the Baja roadtrip, Scott recaps the grom abuse story that created an Internet firestorm, they ponder what if the Fiji Pro is won by the event’s own sponsor (Kelly Slater/Outerknown), review Taylor Steele’s “Proximity”, Dukes and Kooks, and much more! Dang, it’s good to be back. Enjoy Spit!
BAJA OFFERS MUCH MORE THAN FISH TACOS AND SURF
David stayed in an AirBnB right at K38, dined in sophisticated restaurants and even toured their largely undiscovered wine region, Valle de Guadelupe. Despite the past decade’s instability and unsafe travel, David felt very safe and plans to return regularly.
From Surfer.com, “East Coast surfing pioneer Dick Catri passed away at his home in Melbourne, FL, on Monday morning due to complications from a recent series of strokes. Sometimes referred to as the Godfather of East Coast surfing, Catri played a major role in steering the sport’s burgeoning popularity on the right coast during the 1960s and continued to shape its development over the course of the next half-century.”
“Catri’s list of accomplishments is full of novel accolades. He was the first East Coaster to ride the Pipeline and Waimea. He appeared in Bruce Brown films. He opened one of the first surf shops in Florida and cultivated a team of East Coasters for Hobie Surfboards that could rival any Californian contingent of the day. He set the industry standard for surfboard shapers and helped kickstart the contest circuit on the east coast. In his later years, he mentored Cocoa Beach’s Sean and Kelly Slater, young up-and-comers at the time.”
David and Scott for their deplorable FantasySurfer rankings. As hosts of this clubhouse, we are ashamed!!