Author Archives: DS

175 – Spit! July 20, 2017

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In today’s episode of Spit! Scott and David recap the greatest surf event in recent history, The 2017 Corona Open J-Bay. Discussions include Filipe’s paradigm shifting performance, the rainstorm of 10’s, the shark frenzy, mid-wave claims to no-fame, and what new CEO Sophie Goldschmidt will bring to the WSL. We hope that you enjoy the show!

FREDERICO VS JJF

IT’S RAINING 10’S

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THE SAFETY BOAT’S HIGHLINE


SHARK INVASION

CONGRATS FILIPE

HIGHLINE HEAT

WELCOME ABOARD SOPHIE GOLDSCHMIDT

Click here to the article on SurferMag.com

MUST-SEE MOMENT

Scott’s: Vacation Island by Morgan Maassen

Vacation Island from Morgan Maassen on Vimeo.

David’s: Greg Long’s Puerto Escondido Tube

Greg Long at Puerto Escondido, from the beach. from STAB on Vimeo.

KOOK

The judges for giving Frederico a 10 in his final wave against JJF in the quarterfinals.

DUKE

Stab Magazine for their always inventive photo shoot concept. Enjoy The Dock!

Surf Fiction – A Primer

Spawned by a listener comment on Instagram both Chas Smith (episode 172) and Dave Parmenter (episode 174) discussed the travails of “Surf Fiction”, in film and in literature, what are the challenges and why it struggles to accurately reflect surf experience and lifestyle.
A number of listeners sent suggestions for what they deem successful surf fiction, so I wanted to share those recommendations with you. Post your recommendation in the comments. Thanks!
David Scales

From listener, Ross Cauvel in New York @SessionStories
It’s a bit disappointing that surfers, who ostensibly read books waiting for waves, wind, tide, etc…don’t know more about Surf Fiction. The genre has been around for quite awhile, and there have been many well written books by now famous authors / Hollywood screenwriters.
 
When I discovered the genre, I was enthralled to read these stories because I love surfing. Just like Dave Parmenter said, the best stories have intriguing plots and memorable characters and surfing is more of the setting.
 
Here’s a list of my favorites:
1. The Dogs Of Winter by Kem Nunn – Kem wrote three surf books. This one is his Sophmore effort and its fantastically well written prose, great characters, and driving plot. I actually wrote a review of this book here. He also wrote Tapping The Source, which I enjoyed, but is a little cheesy.
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2. Dawn Patrol by Don Winslow – Don has written several surfy books and has since become an expert writer on Mexican Cartel thrillers (The Force and The Cartel). There’s a follow up to this book called Gentleman’s Hour, which is great too. He also wrote Savages, which became an Oliver Stone film.
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3. The Ride Home by Dr. Jacob K. Ray – here’s a blurb from Surfline, “This wild and racy page turner follows the story of a young psychology intern, Chance Feinman, who is trudging through graduate school while contending with his addictions to big surf, fast women, and the darker elements of night life in San Francisco, not to mention his battles with manic-depression, suicide, and unsettled grief over the loss of his best friend to an accidental alcohol related death on the beach. “
The Ride Home
 
Another thing, I’d love to see you cover more is Surf Art. You have access to some of the best surf artists in the world, like Andy Davis and Heather Brown. It’d be great to hear an interview from that side of surfing. I think more collaboration between artists and filmmakers would greatly improve surf films.
 
Keep up the great work. We’re loving it out here on the East Coast. The podcast often comes up and we appreciate the great conversation starters. Hope you make it to NYC to visit (may I recommend September or for a winter session?).
 
Stay salty!
 
Ross Cauvel

www.SessionStories.com


Chime in below or on Instagram @SurfSplendor

174 – Wax On: Dave Parmenter

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We are thrilled to welcome back former guest Dave Parmenter. He first appeared in episode 101 of Surf Splendor where we outlined his biography. A former pro surfer, a surf writer, historian, and boardbuilder, Surfing Magazine once described Parmenter as “the most interesting surfing in the world.” In today’s show Dave explains how “old” surfboard designs are more advanced than many modern designs, why he doesn’t read surf mags nor watch surf films, and why he’s spending most of his watertime miles off the coast. Enjoy the show!

Dave Parmenter’s website is Nowtro.com

Dave Parmenter by Matt George, 1986

Dave Parmenter by Matt George, 1986

LIBERTINE BREWERY

Huge “Thank You” to Libertine Brewery for allowing us to record this episode at their San Luis Obispo location.

DAVE’S WRITING

Read “Shaping Flippy’s Board”, an article written by Parmenter that originally appeared in the Surfer’s Journal in 2001.

DAVE’S INSTAGRAM

And a few of Parmenter’s recent board’s built. Follow @AleutianJuice

OUR FAV INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT

Shred til you’re dead. #outthere #notreally #cheesegrater ?: @tessadp222 ?: @alan_bournisen

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MOVIES DISCUSSED



KAMANU COMPOSITES

Kamanu is the company that Dave spoke about when talking about single person canoes.

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Lastly, here are links to:
Rell Sunn’s entry on The Encyclopedia of Surfing

173 – Spit! July 6, 2017

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Today’s episode of Spit! ranges from utterly superficial to falsely existential! Strap in. David and Scott discuss Koa Rothman’s tooth-shattering (and swallowing) wipeout, female surfers popularity eclipsing males, the Freestone/Blanchard baby to be, who will win J-Bay, will our children be riding finless surfboards, and the day Jay Davies gorilla-stomped the Internet. Enjoy the show!

SHAUN TOMSON’S “THE CODE”

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Shaun Tomson’s 12 principles.
I will never turn my back on the ocean: Passion
I will paddle around the impact zone: No short cuts
I will take the drop with commitment: Courage, focus and determination
I will never fight a rip tide: The danger of pride and egotism
I will always paddle back out: Perseverance in the face of challenges
I will watch out for other surfers after a big set: Responsibility
I will know that there will always be another wave: Optimism
I will ride and not paddle into shore: Self-esteem
I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer: Sharing knowledge and giving back
I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind: Imagination
I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean: Empathy
I will honor the sport of kings: Honor and integrity

JACK FREESTONE AND ALANA BLANCHARD ARE GOING TO GIFT THE WORLD THEIR OFFSPRING

Will the joy of a child help or hinder their respective careers?

So much love for this woman @alanarblanchard and our little prince ?? We can’t wait to meet him ?? 20 weeks ?

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THE CORONA J-BAY OPEN

Scott’s pick for the win: Gabriel Medina

David’s pick for the win: Jordy Smith

FANTASY SURFER

Come play! Go to the Clubs section and search for “Spit!”. Free to join. If you want to wager, click over HERE

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THE ESPY AWARDS

Is female surfing more appealing than male surfing?

John John Florence and Tyler Wright are both nominated as the “Best Action Sports Athlete”.  A male surfer has never won this award before. 3 female surfers have, Steph Gilmore twice (2013, 2011),  Maya Gabeira in 2009, Sofia Mulanovich in 2005.

Stephanie-Gilmore-at-ESPY-Awards-Stunners

MUST-SEE MOMENT

Jay Davies’ new film “Native”

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KOOK

The guy who ditched his board in from in Koa Rothman. The board hit Koa in the head, shattered his teeth and concussed him. CLICK HERE TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE
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Rothman said, “That was probably the most barreled I’ve ever been on my 9’0” — it was like an eight- to ten-foot wave. And I’m in the barrel, and all of a sudden I saw this like flash of red — it was this guy’s board. I put my head down a little bit, ‘cause it was coming straight to my face and it just cleaned me out on the side of my head. And as soon as that happened, my teeth like shattered together on top of each other. Broken in half. And as soon as that happened, I hit the water and swallowed my teeth. I was like, ‘oh fuck. I thought I crushed my eye socket. It hit me so hard . . . .  It was like a car accident.”

DUKE

David’s Pick: Jadson Andre

Scott’s Pick: Alex Gray

Happy #4thofjuly! From #turkeymelt ? edit by @nuttynulty music @jasehen87

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172 – Grit! Chas Smith, June 29, 2017

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David and Chas answer listener inquiries, review the worst boardshorts on the market, critique Albee Layer’s musical tastes and intellect, analyze hipsters’ contributions to surfing, and then the boys seek barrel. Enjoy!

Special thanks to Surfrider.org for allowing us studio space. Please consider becoming a member and helping to improve our Earth health. Click here!

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And visit Chas’s website BeachGrit.com for ultra hard surf candy.

and follow Chas @ReportsFromHell and David at @david_lee_scales @surfsplendor

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ALADDIN SURF MAG

Click here to read issue 18

Aladdin Issue 18

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THE WORST!!! – BOARDSHORT REVIEW

Entry #1: Broactive’s Bro Raptor, designed for boardbuilders, plagiarizing Hurley.

Entry #2: Lululemon, with new spokesmodel, and legitimate Pipeline charger, Evan Valiere Lululemon Boardshorts Evan Valiere for Lululemon

FILM REVIEW: TIN OJEDA’S “FREE JAZZ VEIN”

Listen to the pod if you want the review Free Jazz Vein from Tv Dinner Motion Pictures on Vimeo.

ALBEE LAYER’S “BLACK WAVE”

Albee is, undeniably, contributing more groundbreaking surfing to the world than nearly any other surfer . . . . buuuuuuuuuuuttttttttt . . . why oh why would he use this song? Leave your comments below.

IS TYLER ALLEN THE BEST THING IN SURFING RIGHT NOW?

 

Da real!! @adrianodesouza @wsl @coconut_willie music by my favorite surfer Gabe Boucher @ocsabat_ A post shared by Tyler Allen (@tylerallenvo) on

Trump walks us through his wave from the other day

A post shared by Tyler Allen (@tylerallenvo) on

DEFEND YOUR CLIP

Michael Ho’s below sea-level Backdoor barrel. Go to the 5:30 mark.

LICENSE TO CHILL | ROCKY POINT from LICENSE TO CHILL on Vimeo.

171 – Shaping Surfing: Jeff McCallum

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Today’s episode of ‘Shaping Surfing’ features surfboard shaper Jeff McCallum. Jeff McCallum builds surfboards in San Diego California with an unwavering focus on quality. Quality is a word that gets thrown around pretty frivolously in surfboard building, so Jeff explains what exactly constitutes quality, it’s cost, and how to scale it with the growth of the business. Jeff is somewhat reclusive so it’s a real treat to have spent an hour with him and be able to bring that hour to you. His engagement with the media, or lack thereof, is just reflective of his personality and the fact that the dude is busy making surfboards by hand. And that’s where I found him, in his factory on a Tuesday morning at 9am, just a mere 12 miles north of the Mexican border. I hope that you enjoy today’s show.

Follow @McCallumSurfboards and McCallumSurfboards.com

And purchase a McCallum surfboard at AtacamaSurf.com

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Jeff McCallum – Snapshot from Tim Mantoani on Vimeo.

6’0″ Heading to skeNGkwerks today. Inside @atacama_surf More info: mccallumsurfboards.flo@gmail.com (858)405-7856

A post shared by MCCALLUM SURFBOARDS (@mccallumsurfboards) on

Something for everyone. And yes all the bags are reused and recycled as much as possible @visslasurf #creatorsandinnovators A post shared by MCCALLUM SURFBOARDS (@mccallumsurfboards) on

@cparkphoto of a little Classic fish we made @visslasurf #creatorsandinnovators A post shared by MCCALLUM SURFBOARDS (@mccallumsurfboards) on

170 – Spit! June 21, 2017

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In today’s episode of Spit!, David and Scott survey Occy’s forthcoming wave pool “Surf Lakes”, analyze the OK Fiji Pro, Dane Reynold’s return to competition, and in the tradition that Scott set forth, David establishes his “Core Surf Values”. They also offer Must-See Moments, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy!

RECORD SETTING PADDLE-OUT

OCCY’S SURF LAKES

Occy is the Surf Industry Advisor for “Surf Lakes”.

Occys Surf Lakes by Surf Splendor

From the prospectus, “Surf Lakes works by generating concentric waves from a central wave generator that radiate outwards. Each wave breaks on a variety of submerged reefs and shorelines. Each reef captures the energy of the swell at different points and shapes the resulting wave, thus a creating a variety of sizes and shapes of waves. The number of surf breaks generated by each single wave is only limited by the size of the pool and number of surf breaks. In the model below, each wave generates 8 surfing waves and 4 learner style waves. This allows up to 12 surfers to surf on each wave that is produced.

Surf Lakes by Surf Splendor

“The wave generator is oscillated to create a ‘set’ of waves much like the ocean, with the breaking waves resembling a “peak” wave seen at quality beach breaks like Duranbah Beach in Queensland, or quality reef breaks like Pipeline in Hawaii. The waves break both left and right, from a central peak or ‘a-frame’.”

“Each set produces 5 to 7 waves and is repeated every few minutes. Therefore, capable of producing up to 2,400 rideable waves each hour. This does not include the ‘learner’ style waves that are produced at each corner of the lake. These waves would be utilised by surf schools, which further add to the revenue generating potential of the Surf Lake.”

FIJI PRO

Congrats to Matt Wilkinson for defeating Conner O’Leary in the final.

KEPA ACERO’S NEAR FATAL WIPEOUT

The only thing that separates us from death is time.” Kepa Acero

OLATU FACTORY FIRE

Link to full article on Surfline.com

Just when I thought I’ve seen and experienced it all, and only two years after I lost my house to a fire, life sent another set wave at 30 others and I and it was no rehearsal. I had just laid the last shape of my day down upstairs at the @pukassurf factory in Spain and heard fire alarms thru the loud noises of operating shaping machines, various stereos, and noticed nobody was around. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the girls from the office start screaming at me in Spanish from a distance and I just took that as run as I only had seconds to navigate out of the largest surfboard factory in Europe. Flames were running along the walls and floors rapidly igniting everything in their path as I was one of the last to get out. It was a miracle that all 30+ of us made it out of the factory just before 100% of the building was engulfed in flames. It took 25 minutes before the first fire crew arrived. All we could do is watch this fire from a distance take the whole factory down along with surrounding buildings. It was so sad to see the tears of the owners and staff who have put 40+ years of their heart and souls into this business, and to know the tough paddling they’ll have to do to make it back in the channel. Fire is no joke, and I encourage everyone to take all fire preventions and drills seriously at your home, work place, and places of leisure. This was just my 3rd trip to work here and I already considered @pukassurf family and amongst the nicest people I’ve ever worked with. The @pukassurf crew is tough as nails and they’ll be back in the lineup soon, stronger than ever…… Life is precious, and business is just only business.

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MUST-SEE MOMENT

David’s Pick: Corey Wilson’s landscape/seascape/lineup shot of an unidentified surfer in South Africa.

South Africa ?? A post shared by COREY WILSON (@corey_wilson) on


Scott’s Pick: Kirby Brown at “The Right”

The Right from Mike Riley on Vimeo.

KOOKS

David’s Pick: Stab for ripping off Scott’s idea for a reimagined tour.

Link to the full article

Skeleton Bay

Scott’s Pick: JJF, Kelly, Owen, Jordy, and Gabe who dropped the ball in Fiji.

DUKES

David’s Pick: Joel Parkinson for being a classy sportsman by giving priority to both Jeremy Flores and Stu Kennedy. Go to the 20 minute mark (10 minutes into the heat) of Round 5, Heat 4 to see the exchange and hear Ronnie Blakey’s explanation.

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Scott’s Pick: Conner O’Leary for making a final in his rookie year on tour.

Conner Oleary

 

169 – The Grit! Chas Smith

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Gimme the Grit Artwork 2Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take the candy! Enjoy the show!

Episode 72 with Chas Smith

Episode 111 with Chas Smith and Derek Rielly

Visit BeachGrit.com to see Chas’s work in all it’s glory.

Opening song: Father John Misty, Hollywood Forever Cemetery

OWEN WRIGHT’S HEAD TRAUMA

Here’s the day Owen ruled Pipeline, just before his reported head trauma from duckdiving.

And here’s one of BeachGrit’s various stories covering the saga. This one by Chas’s partner, Derek Rielly.

Owen Wright Head Trauma

Blood Feud: Reno Abellira vs. Matt Warshaw

Part 2

Reno Blood Feud

Link to Part 1

DOES BLONDE HAIR MAKE YOU SHRED?

Pretty compelling evidence this year . . .

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THE STATE OF WOMEN’S SURFING

Can we begin an honest and critical dialogue about the shortcoming of women’s surfing?

Courtney won the Fiji Pro this year with a 8.74 heat total, and without getting barreled.

Rochelle Ballard’s surfing a decade ago would be winning heats today, especially during the big, unruly days. Here’s Rochelle  surfing the Roxy Fiji Pro in 2006 (Not an apples to apples comparison. Rochelle is surfing a perfect day, but still worth noting).

Looking forward to some sick #barrels this #winter #tbt #pipeline @cisurfboards @nukumoisurf @surfintoyoga ? Kumio

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And here’s an example of Stephanie Gilmore’s superiority over all other surfers, regardless of gender.

Stephanie Gilmore – The Tempest. from Monster Children on Vimeo.

ABOUT CHAS SMITH

LINK TO PURCHASE THE BOOK

Welcome to Paradise Now Go To Hell

Chas-Smith

Here’s some background info and spin-off stories regarding Chas Smith’s controversy with Mick Fanning. Uncharted Waters: Bigotry in Surfing by Zach Weisberg on TheInertia.com

Mick Fanning and Chas Smith

Link to Chas Smith’s Article on Eddie Rothman in Playboy

Fast Eddies Last Stand

Closing song: TV on the Radio, Quartz

168 – Spit! June 6, 2017

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In today’s episode of Spit!, Scott recaps his recent surf trip to Mexico where he found enlightenment and his “Core Surfing Beliefs”. The boys then analyze the tenuous link between menstruation and shark attacks, pay homage to the leaders who left us on Friday June 2nd (R.I.P. Severson and O’Neill), and then finish with Must-See Moments, Kooks, and Dukes. Enjoy!

INTRO MUSIC: Benjamin Booker, Violent Shiver

THE SPIT! ACRONYM

 

 

  Spit! Surf…Podcast…I…T? We need an acronym! Help! Upvote your favorites ??   A post shared by Surf Splendor (@surfsplendor) on


LAIRD HAMILTON ON TMZ

Link to the full article on Surfline.com

R.I.P JOHN SEVERSON

Click over to the EOS (and support em!) to read the full biography of John Severson

John Severson on the EOS

John Severson

John Severson 2

R.I.P. JACK O’NEILL

Jack O'Neill

WOMEN’S OUTERKNOWN FIJI PRO

Congrats to Courtney Conologue for taking the win over Tatiana Weston Webb

MUST-SEE MOMENT

Michel Bourez’s innovative backfoot stall at Cloudbreak.


KOOK

The Kook of the week is the 19 year old female driver who fatally struck surfboard shaper Paul Burke. You can help support Burke’s family at their GoFundMe page HERE

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paulburke

DUKE

Fabio Contu and Troy Joyner for tackling a would-be bomber on their flight from Melbourne to Nias. Full article on the DailyTelegraph HERE

Troy Joyner and Fabio

R.I.P. GREGG ALLMAN

Outro song: Allman Brothers, Blue Sky

167 – Wax On: Keith Malloy

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Today we Wax On with Keith Malloy. Keith talks about his idealogical transition as a surfer, from riding high-performance thrusters to a “ride anything” mentality and how he’s documented that evolution through film, first with “Come Hell or High Water” and now with his latest documentary release “Fishpeople”. “Fishpeople” explores the lives of 6 sea-goers; a diver, a swimmer, a life coach, a photographer, and two professional surfers, as they examine how the sea has transformed their lives. We hope you enjoy this conversation with Keith Malloy.

Keith Malloy

Keith Malloy’s “Fishpeople”

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Keith Malloy in California by Tim Davis

Keith Malloy in California by Tim Davis

Keith Malloy in Indonesia, 2009 by Tim Davis

Keith Malloy in Indonesia, 2009 by Tim Davis

Keith Malloy on the Kamchatka peninsula, 2012.

Keith Malloy on the Kamchatka peninsula, 2012.

Keith Malloy’s short film for Farm League, “Surfers Healing”

Surfers Healing from Farm League on Vimeo.

Sidenotes:

Keith Malloy’s “Come Hell or High Water”

Emmett Malloy’s “Big Easy Express”

Chris Malloy’s “180 Degrees South”