Monthly Archives: June 2017

172 – Grit! Chas Smith, June 29, 2017

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David and Chas answer listener inquiries, review the worst boardshorts on the market, critique Albee Layer’s musical tastes and intellect, analyze hipsters’ contributions to surfing, and then the boys seek barrel. Enjoy!

Special thanks to Surfrider.org for allowing us studio space. Please consider becoming a member and helping to improve our Earth health. Click here!

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And visit Chas’s website BeachGrit.com for ultra hard surf candy.

and follow Chas @ReportsFromHell and David at @david_lee_scales @surfsplendor

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ALADDIN SURF MAG

Click here to read issue 18

Aladdin Issue 18

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THE WORST!!! – BOARDSHORT REVIEW

Entry #1: Broactive’s Bro Raptor, designed for boardbuilders, plagiarizing Hurley.

Entry #2: Lululemon, with new spokesmodel, and legitimate Pipeline charger, Evan Valiere Lululemon Boardshorts Evan Valiere for Lululemon

FILM REVIEW: TIN OJEDA’S “FREE JAZZ VEIN”

Listen to the pod if you want the review Free Jazz Vein from Tv Dinner Motion Pictures on Vimeo.

ALBEE LAYER’S “BLACK WAVE”

Albee is, undeniably, contributing more groundbreaking surfing to the world than nearly any other surfer . . . . buuuuuuuuuuuttttttttt . . . why oh why would he use this song? Leave your comments below.

IS TYLER ALLEN THE BEST THING IN SURFING RIGHT NOW?

 

Da real!! @adrianodesouza @wsl @coconut_willie music by my favorite surfer Gabe Boucher @ocsabat_ A post shared by Tyler Allen (@tylerallenvo) on

Trump walks us through his wave from the other day

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DEFEND YOUR CLIP

Michael Ho’s below sea-level Backdoor barrel. Go to the 5:30 mark.

LICENSE TO CHILL | ROCKY POINT from LICENSE TO CHILL on Vimeo.

171 – Shaping Surfing: Jeff McCallum

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Today’s episode of ‘Shaping Surfing’ features surfboard shaper Jeff McCallum. Jeff McCallum builds surfboards in San Diego California with an unwavering focus on quality. Quality is a word that gets thrown around pretty frivolously in surfboard building, so Jeff explains what exactly constitutes quality, it’s cost, and how to scale it with the growth of the business. Jeff is somewhat reclusive so it’s a real treat to have spent an hour with him and be able to bring that hour to you. His engagement with the media, or lack thereof, is just reflective of his personality and the fact that the dude is busy making surfboards by hand. And that’s where I found him, in his factory on a Tuesday morning at 9am, just a mere 12 miles north of the Mexican border. I hope that you enjoy today’s show.

Follow @McCallumSurfboards and McCallumSurfboards.com

And purchase a McCallum surfboard at AtacamaSurf.com

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Jeff McCallum – Snapshot from Tim Mantoani on Vimeo.

6’0″ Heading to skeNGkwerks today. Inside @atacama_surf More info: mccallumsurfboards.flo@gmail.com (858)405-7856

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Something for everyone. And yes all the bags are reused and recycled as much as possible @visslasurf #creatorsandinnovators A post shared by MCCALLUM SURFBOARDS (@mccallumsurfboards) on

@cparkphoto of a little Classic fish we made @visslasurf #creatorsandinnovators A post shared by MCCALLUM SURFBOARDS (@mccallumsurfboards) on

170 – Spit! June 21, 2017

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In today’s episode of Spit!, David and Scott survey Occy’s forthcoming wave pool “Surf Lakes”, analyze the OK Fiji Pro, Dane Reynold’s return to competition, and in the tradition that Scott set forth, David establishes his “Core Surf Values”. They also offer Must-See Moments, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy!

RECORD SETTING PADDLE-OUT

OCCY’S SURF LAKES

Occy is the Surf Industry Advisor for “Surf Lakes”.

Occys Surf Lakes by Surf Splendor

From the prospectus, “Surf Lakes works by generating concentric waves from a central wave generator that radiate outwards. Each wave breaks on a variety of submerged reefs and shorelines. Each reef captures the energy of the swell at different points and shapes the resulting wave, thus a creating a variety of sizes and shapes of waves. The number of surf breaks generated by each single wave is only limited by the size of the pool and number of surf breaks. In the model below, each wave generates 8 surfing waves and 4 learner style waves. This allows up to 12 surfers to surf on each wave that is produced.

Surf Lakes by Surf Splendor

“The wave generator is oscillated to create a ‘set’ of waves much like the ocean, with the breaking waves resembling a “peak” wave seen at quality beach breaks like Duranbah Beach in Queensland, or quality reef breaks like Pipeline in Hawaii. The waves break both left and right, from a central peak or ‘a-frame’.”

“Each set produces 5 to 7 waves and is repeated every few minutes. Therefore, capable of producing up to 2,400 rideable waves each hour. This does not include the ‘learner’ style waves that are produced at each corner of the lake. These waves would be utilised by surf schools, which further add to the revenue generating potential of the Surf Lake.”

FIJI PRO

Congrats to Matt Wilkinson for defeating Conner O’Leary in the final.

KEPA ACERO’S NEAR FATAL WIPEOUT

The only thing that separates us from death is time.” Kepa Acero

OLATU FACTORY FIRE

Link to full article on Surfline.com

Just when I thought I’ve seen and experienced it all, and only two years after I lost my house to a fire, life sent another set wave at 30 others and I and it was no rehearsal. I had just laid the last shape of my day down upstairs at the @pukassurf factory in Spain and heard fire alarms thru the loud noises of operating shaping machines, various stereos, and noticed nobody was around. Then out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the girls from the office start screaming at me in Spanish from a distance and I just took that as run as I only had seconds to navigate out of the largest surfboard factory in Europe. Flames were running along the walls and floors rapidly igniting everything in their path as I was one of the last to get out. It was a miracle that all 30+ of us made it out of the factory just before 100% of the building was engulfed in flames. It took 25 minutes before the first fire crew arrived. All we could do is watch this fire from a distance take the whole factory down along with surrounding buildings. It was so sad to see the tears of the owners and staff who have put 40+ years of their heart and souls into this business, and to know the tough paddling they’ll have to do to make it back in the channel. Fire is no joke, and I encourage everyone to take all fire preventions and drills seriously at your home, work place, and places of leisure. This was just my 3rd trip to work here and I already considered @pukassurf family and amongst the nicest people I’ve ever worked with. The @pukassurf crew is tough as nails and they’ll be back in the lineup soon, stronger than ever…… Life is precious, and business is just only business.

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MUST-SEE MOMENT

David’s Pick: Corey Wilson’s landscape/seascape/lineup shot of an unidentified surfer in South Africa.

South Africa ?? A post shared by COREY WILSON (@corey_wilson) on


Scott’s Pick: Kirby Brown at “The Right”

The Right from Mike Riley on Vimeo.

KOOKS

David’s Pick: Stab for ripping off Scott’s idea for a reimagined tour.

Link to the full article

Skeleton Bay

Scott’s Pick: JJF, Kelly, Owen, Jordy, and Gabe who dropped the ball in Fiji.

DUKES

David’s Pick: Joel Parkinson for being a classy sportsman by giving priority to both Jeremy Flores and Stu Kennedy. Go to the 20 minute mark (10 minutes into the heat) of Round 5, Heat 4 to see the exchange and hear Ronnie Blakey’s explanation.

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Scott’s Pick: Conner O’Leary for making a final in his rookie year on tour.

Conner Oleary

 

169 – The Grit! Chas Smith

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Gimme the Grit Artwork 2Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take the candy! Enjoy the show!

Episode 72 with Chas Smith

Episode 111 with Chas Smith and Derek Rielly

Visit BeachGrit.com to see Chas’s work in all it’s glory.

Opening song: Father John Misty, Hollywood Forever Cemetery

OWEN WRIGHT’S HEAD TRAUMA

Here’s the day Owen ruled Pipeline, just before his reported head trauma from duckdiving.

And here’s one of BeachGrit’s various stories covering the saga. This one by Chas’s partner, Derek Rielly.

Owen Wright Head Trauma

Blood Feud: Reno Abellira vs. Matt Warshaw

Part 2

Reno Blood Feud

Link to Part 1

DOES BLONDE HAIR MAKE YOU SHRED?

Pretty compelling evidence this year . . .

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THE STATE OF WOMEN’S SURFING

Can we begin an honest and critical dialogue about the shortcoming of women’s surfing?

Courtney won the Fiji Pro this year with a 8.74 heat total, and without getting barreled.

Rochelle Ballard’s surfing a decade ago would be winning heats today, especially during the big, unruly days. Here’s Rochelle  surfing the Roxy Fiji Pro in 2006 (Not an apples to apples comparison. Rochelle is surfing a perfect day, but still worth noting).

Looking forward to some sick #barrels this #winter #tbt #pipeline @cisurfboards @nukumoisurf @surfintoyoga ? Kumio

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And here’s an example of Stephanie Gilmore’s superiority over all other surfers, regardless of gender.

Stephanie Gilmore – The Tempest. from Monster Children on Vimeo.

ABOUT CHAS SMITH

LINK TO PURCHASE THE BOOK

Welcome to Paradise Now Go To Hell

Chas-Smith

Here’s some background info and spin-off stories regarding Chas Smith’s controversy with Mick Fanning. Uncharted Waters: Bigotry in Surfing by Zach Weisberg on TheInertia.com

Mick Fanning and Chas Smith

Link to Chas Smith’s Article on Eddie Rothman in Playboy

Fast Eddies Last Stand

Closing song: TV on the Radio, Quartz

168 – Spit! June 6, 2017

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In today’s episode of Spit!, Scott recaps his recent surf trip to Mexico where he found enlightenment and his “Core Surfing Beliefs”. The boys then analyze the tenuous link between menstruation and shark attacks, pay homage to the leaders who left us on Friday June 2nd (R.I.P. Severson and O’Neill), and then finish with Must-See Moments, Kooks, and Dukes. Enjoy!

INTRO MUSIC: Benjamin Booker, Violent Shiver

THE SPIT! ACRONYM

 

 

  Spit! Surf…Podcast…I…T? We need an acronym! Help! Upvote your favorites ??   A post shared by Surf Splendor (@surfsplendor) on


LAIRD HAMILTON ON TMZ

Link to the full article on Surfline.com

R.I.P JOHN SEVERSON

Click over to the EOS (and support em!) to read the full biography of John Severson

John Severson on the EOS

John Severson

John Severson 2

R.I.P. JACK O’NEILL

Jack O'Neill

WOMEN’S OUTERKNOWN FIJI PRO

Congrats to Courtney Conologue for taking the win over Tatiana Weston Webb

MUST-SEE MOMENT

Michel Bourez’s innovative backfoot stall at Cloudbreak.


KOOK

The Kook of the week is the 19 year old female driver who fatally struck surfboard shaper Paul Burke. You can help support Burke’s family at their GoFundMe page HERE

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paulburke

DUKE

Fabio Contu and Troy Joyner for tackling a would-be bomber on their flight from Melbourne to Nias. Full article on the DailyTelegraph HERE

Troy Joyner and Fabio

R.I.P. GREGG ALLMAN

Outro song: Allman Brothers, Blue Sky