Finnegan’s been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Professionally, he’s a staff writer at The New Yorker, since 1987, and author of 5 books including his most recent, Barbarian Days, which is the main subject of our conversation here today. As a journalist his mainly written about apartheid, drug wars, and border conflicts, but Barbarian Days is a memoir, a far departure from journalistic reporting. Finnegan is a lifelong surfer and the book details his journey from adolescence through adulthood as a surfer, exploring the world, and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life. We recorded this conversation in LA at the kitchen table of an AirBnB he had rented while he was here visiting family. Enjoy!